How to Build a Corn Hole Toss Board the Easy Way

The video includes a very quick overview of how to make bean bags. We have a more expansive post showing the process in some detail. Click here to check it out.

From quarterbacks to huffy babies - throwing things comes naturally to humans. 

There's something very satisfying about it - almost primeval. The advantage of our opposable thumb over other creatures do you think?

From ancient times to the present, folks have been pitching things in both peace and war.

cartoon baby throwing things
How to Build a Corn Hole Toss Board the Easy WayIt's no wonder then that cornhole is so popular today - as an uncomplicated yard or lawn game, it's pretty hard to beat .

Simple game, simple rules and simply fun - what better way to describe this compelling pastime?

A diversion for all the family - adds a bit of pleasure to those family cookouts and summer BBQs.

Anyone can play - there's no real age barrier. And, if you're very keen, you can play it all year round day or night . You can always go pro if you're that hooked!

One sure way to enhance your enjoyment of bean bag toss is to build your own game boards. That way you can let your imagination go and customize them in any way you want.

In this post we show you how to build a corn hole toss board the easy way. We tell you what supplies and tools you'll need to make two bean bag game-boards.

There are two methods of assembling the boards once the timbers are cut. Using the Kreg Jig to create pocket holes, you can conceal all the screw heads inside the frame. The more direct way of screwing the battens and top together leaves the screw heads exposed. They will need filling with putty to avoid snagging the bags.

The video explains the alternative fixing methods along with the tips and tricks you can use to complete this project fast, easy and cheaply.



Supplies Needed

Kreg Jig K4 Pocket Hole System

6" Heavy Duty Steel Hole Saw

TOOLS

Sliding miter saw (or use a handsaw with a miter block).

5-inch Random Orbit Sander

Power Drill/Driver.

Electric Jig Saw or Rip Saw.

Kreg Jig – (Optional)

12" Ratchet Bar Clamp

Compass

Speed Square

Tape Measure & Marking Pencil

TIP: You can sandpaper by hand as an alternative. Use 60G then 120 G to finish.

SUPPLIES

4 x 4 1/2 x 3/8 inch zinc plated carriage bolts

4 x 3/8 inch zinc washers

4 x 3/8 inch zinc wing nuts

2 ½” wood screws (amount depends on which fixing you use)

1 ½” wood screws (amount depends on which fixing you use)

Paint to your choice of color

Masking tape / stencils to suit your design

CUT WOOD LIST

4 x 48″ Lengths 2×4 - Long frame sides

4 x 21″ Lengths 2×4 - Short frame sides

4 x 12" Lengths 2×4 (Allows for legs to be trimmed and angled)

2 x 4' x 2' 1/2 thick plywood for the platform

NOTE: The actual size of 4 x 2 timber battens is 3 1/2 x 1 3/4 - hence the shorter pieces are cut at 21" to allow for the 3" added by the short battens. If you can't cut the timber yourself, your local DIY store may do that for you. Word of caution: Double check their measurements before they cut the wood.


Step by Step Instructions

Collect all the material together to save delay. Have your tools nearby for ready use.

Start the job by cutting the 4 x 2 frame battens to size - for one board you'll need 2 x 48" pieces and 2 x 21" pieces. Double this amount for two boards.

PREPARING THE LEGS

Cut two leg lengths at a minimum of 12" each.

Measure for the center of the pivot hole - 1.75" from the top and the same distance from the side. Use your speed square to keep the lines true.

Draw a penciled arc at 1.75" radius with compasses.

Drill through the leg with a 3/8" dia bit from the center of the pivot. This will take the coach bolt when the board is put together later.

Trim off the wood around the arc using a jigsaw and smooth off with a sander.

SURFACE FIXED FRAME & TOP

Gather the frame members and the board top together and place them on your workbench. Butt them together prior to fixing.

To prevent splitting, drill pilot holes into the 4 x 2 battens at the corners to take the fixings. Then screw them together using 2.5" screws. Remember to keep the frame square while assembling - use long clamps or straps. You may also want to countersink the holes to make it easier to fill them later.

Once completed turn over the frame. Place the ply top on it and drill pilot holes at around 9" centers. Then secure it with 1.5" screws.

CONCEALED FIXED FRAME AND TOP

To avoid having surface fixings, you can use a Kreg Jig to make pocket holes. You won't have to use filler with this method.

Clamp the jig on to the frame battens and drill pilot holes along the broad face of each frame for fixing to the tabletop. Around 9" centers should be okay.

Also, drill pocket holes at each corner of the frame timbers to screw them together with 2.5" Kreg screws. Note: Special screw kits are available for the jig and it comes with the necessary tools for drilling and fixing.

Then fix the top in place using 1.25" Kreg screws.

FIXING THE LEGS

Clamp the leg at the end of the tabletop and use the 3/8" hole as a guide to drill through the 4 x 2 frame.

Fit the carriage bolt from the outside of the frame - you can cut for the head square of the bolt to allow for a neat fit and stop the bolt from turning. Place a washer and wing nut to secure on the inside.

Test the leg to see that it pivots easily. If it jambs, remove it and sand off extra wood then refit.

Repeat the process for the second leg.

TRIMMING THE LEGS TO REGULATION SIZE

To get the correct angle and the right height of 12" you will need to place the board on a large enough worktop.

Slip a box below the board to lift it. Move the box until you can measure 12" from the worktop to the top of the board.

Slide the board over until one leg can drop clear. With the leg fully extended use the worktop as a straight edge to draw the cutting line for the correct angle.

Do the same for the other leg.

Then cut along the penciled line on each leg using a saw - either a miter or a rip.

This will now ensure that the board sits level on the ground.

DRILLING THE HOLE

The center of the hole must be at 9" from the top of the board and 12" from the side. Once measured use a compass to draw a circle at 6" diameter (3" radius).

Cut the hole one of two ways:

1. Drill a start hole within the diameter of the circle and then use a jig saw to cut around the circle.

2. Our preference is to use a 6" hole saw attached to a power drill. Center the guide bit of the saw on the center point and drill out the circle. Don't push down too hard on the drill as this will cause it to jam. Take it nice and easy and let the hole saw do the work.

Clean off any rough edges with 120G sandpaper.

If you have used the surface fix method for assembling the board you'll need to fill all the countersunk holes with putty. Once dried sand off any excess until you have a even finish.

PAINTING THE BOARD

Whatever design you decide upon use latex paint as it's safer and less smelly. Paint the board all over to your color choice using brushes or rollers.

To extend the life of the board you can use a exterior primer before painting - this helps extend its weather resistance.

Use frog tape to keep lines clean and straight. Remove the tape just before the paint is dry.

Add decals or transfers to your choice.

Finish any design with a top coat of clear polyurethane to protect the surface.

MAKING YOUR OWN BAGS

We have a more detailed process for making your own bags. Click on the link at the top of this page.



This project is not difficult to do. The materials are not expensive and you don't need any particular skills to make the boards.

Follow the instructions carefully and you make a good job of building your boards. Take care with the measuring and the finishing and you will create a professional job.

Now you will boards that are unique to you - enjoy!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *